The past couple months I’ve been stepping away from lolita posts and focusing more on my sewing progress. This post will be combining the two, and is also going to be very helpful when I make my advanced guide for being a plus sized lolita video. This list is made of patterns that I’ve found online that I think would work well in lolita as is or with a few adjustments.
Skip ahead to the list if you don’t want to hear why I think it’s good to make your own clothes (especially when it comes to lolita). The first is very obvious if you don’t fit into the standard sizes offered, and even more so if you’re bigger than them instead of smaller: to have clothes that fit and flatter you. But more than that, it’s a great feeling to own something that is exactly what you want instead of thinking ‘this blouse would be fantastic if only the collar was an inch lower’ or ‘gosh I love this dress but the waist is just a bit too high.’
And, of course, there’s the price situation. I’ve made it clear that I’m not in the best financial situation, and I doubt that I will ever be comfortable dropping more than $100 on a single piece of clothing no matter how much money I make. Beginning to sew is a bit of an investment, though that’s mostly because of the sewing machine. If you can use someone’s or find one used that’s helpful, but good sewing machines can easily run above $200. Luckily, you don’t need a “good” sewing machine, you just need one that works.
I had one from Walmart that was about $120 and that lasted me about 4 years. It recently broke and, being in a worse situation than I was previously, I bought one once again from Walmart for $80. It’s not the best, but it sews and is relatively reliable. Everything on my blog so far has been made with that machine.
I could go on and on about this, but I’ll just go ahead and get to the list. This list will not include accessories (at least for now).
NOTE: I am only including patterns that are currently available. If you have any pattern suggestions leave a comment with the link.
ANOTHER NOTE: Mixing and matching pattern pieces is an excellent idea, especially if you have a piece that you’ve already used and altered to fit your body specifically.
If you’re completely new to sewing I suggest checking out Tilly and The Buttons learn to sew section.
10/25/15 UPDATE:
Otome No Sewing are pattern books specifically for Lolita, and they are super easy to get a hold of! You can get them on Amazon for about $10-$30, depending on which one you're interested in. They have a huge variety of patterns. I personally own 4 of them at the time of this update.
Because this is Lolita, the patterns are a little bit small, but I will be covering how to size them up in another post, which you can view here. These books are definitely worth it!
BOOKS
NOTE: I suggest always looking for things elsewhere for lower prices. At the very least, check Alibris to see if they might be cheaper there.
Sewing Vintage Modern by Burdastyle can be bought on Amazon for $20. I’ll be mentioning a couple patterns from this book.
Design it Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch can be bought from Amazon for $17. If you want to skip buying patterns and learn how to make them yourself, this is the book for you. It uses technical language but isn’t dull and has a lot of useful information. Also helpful for altering existing patterns.
BLOUSES AND CUTSEWS
Violet by Colette patterns has a short and long(ish) sleeved version. You can buy it for $16, and they have tutorials for tucks, lace on the collar, and button loops for free.
Jasmine from Colette patterns would be good for a sailor inspired look. You can get this for $16 or download it as a PDF for $12.
Alma from Sewaholic is another pan collar blouse but it has a full sleeve version. It’s $16.
The Pendrell blouse has some cute sleeves and might be good as a cutsew. Also $16.
New Look’s 6599 is available for $4.29.
New Look’s 6078 is pretty cute in my opinion, and I like the long and short sleeve options. This could be a cute cutsew as well.
The Lilian blouse from Burdastyle’s Sewing Vintage Modern. I think it might look better with a pan collar.
The Penelope blouse from Burdastyle’s Sewing Vintage Modern. I’m not using the picture of the blouse they made because it’s awful. Try using a nice cotton.
The Pussy Galore blouse from Eliza M is super cute. I love bow neck blouses. This pattern is £12.50. It’s available on a couple different websites and I’m sure shipping costs vary, so shop around!
Tutorials for blouses and cutsews (also good for Jumperskirts and Dresses section)
- Draft your own pan collar
- Slash and spread for puffed/princess sleeves (the idea is the same for shorter sleeves)
- Pleat a sleeve cap
- Add pintucks to a blouse (specifically for the Violet blouse but good for most blouses)
- Make a pintuck bib (and other things from the lolita_handbook)
- How to sew darts
- Alter dart height
CARDIGANS AND JACKETS
McCall’s 5006 cardigans and capelets pattern is available for $13.
Simplicity.com 2183 has cardigan patterns with closures. At the moment it’s available for $9.55, but Simplicity.com often has five for $5 sales.
Simplicity.com 2487 has cardigans with no closures. It’s available for $10.15 right now. I like the long sleeved versions a lot.
Simplicity.com 4032 is pretty nice. I like the green design the most, though I’d make the ruffle fuller.
Colette Pattern’s Anise jacket is available for $16 or as a PDF for $12. There is also the Anise Companion available for $9 that walks you through every tiny step.
The Watson jacket is a combination of a jacket and capelet and isn’t it just adorable. Unfortunately it’s $35.00, but it is lovely.
This skirt and jacket pattern is from Gertie’s Butterick line, and right now it’s on sale for $3.99!
Tutorials for cardigans and jackets
COATS
Butterick’s 5824 is $12. The skirt portion is separate and gathered, so you can make it fuller easily if you want to.
Colette Patterns’ Lady Grey is available for $18. It’s a wrap coat and it looks full enough to accommodate a poofy skirt. It helps that it isn’t very long.
Vogue’s 8346 is $16.50.
Tutorials for coats
- Gertie did a series of vlogs for Vogue 8346.
- She also did a s sew along for Butterick 5824.
- More to come
DRESSES AND JUMPERSKIRTS
The Elizabeth Dress from Burdastyle’s Sewing Vintage Modern. Raise the waist a tiny bit and I think you’re good to go. This would be a great base pattern to try different things with sleeves, collars, and prints. (NOTE: I have made two dresses using this pattern as a base and it works wonderfully for me.)
Simplicity.com 3673 is available for $9.55 at the present time. The skirt would need to be a little (or a lot, depending on your preference) fuller. Also make the pleats longer and maybe larger.
Simplicity.com 4092 is available for $10.75. This pattern would be good for something more opulent. I’m thinking like this Mary Magdalene OP.
Butterick’s B5748 is available for $11.97. The good thing about this dress is that the skirt is plenty full so you won’t have to do anything with that. The bad(ish) is that the back is pretty low, but that shouldn’t be difficult to fix. You may need a longer zipper than suggested, however.
Burdastyles’s Katjusha is FREE. I would personally ditch the halter and add straps but either way this is pretty good. It has shirring, too.
Burdastyle’s lace wedding dress is $5.40. Shorten the skirt and add some puffed sleeves if you feel so inclined and this would be adorable.
Tutorials for dresses and jumperskirts
- Pattern too small in the chest department? Try a Full Bust Adjustment
- Pattern too big in the chest department? Try a Small Bust Adjustment
- Altering a pattern for back shirring
- How to slash and spread a skirt
- Understanding ease in patterns
- How to re-size a pattern
- Sewing a curved hem
- Sew an invisible zipper
- Make a scalloped hem
- Add Pockets!
SKIRTS (Changing it up here folks. With the exception of the first pattern, all links will go to tutorials.)
McCall’s 6570 is a full circle skirt cut on the cross grain. It’s available for $4.99.
Pintuck and ruffle skirt tutorial (a little hard to follow)
Make use of the circle skirt calculator for full, 3/4, and half circle skirts (A-line).
Tutorials for skirts (that don’t involve drafting them)
- Add boning to a high waist skirt
- Horsehair braid tutorial
- See Jumperskirts and Dresses section for more
UNDER WEAR
Burdastyle’s Sewing Vintage Modern Celia pajama set.
Sugardale’s A-line petticoat tutorial is great.
Tutorials for under wear
This list is a work in progress. If you have any suggestions (particularly for patterns) leave a comment.
thank you for this great informative blog, I have been trying and failing to appease my daughters wants for this expensive hobby, I found a great place to start! Thanks again. stay very classy!
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DeleteThis was very helpful! I'm planning a costplay and these patterns seem perfect. It'll be a bit before I can actually buy them but it was very helpful!
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